Catbus revisited

One of my earlier patterns was that of a Catbus, from the movie My Neighbour Totoro. I made one for a friend of mine when I started writing my own patterns. Sadly, when I wanted to make another one, I realised I never fully wrote out the pattern. So when I decided I wanted to make a catbus for the Tegendraads stand at Tomofair this October, I took out my old notes and revised them. And wrote them down in full. So I can make this new, ‘improved’ catbus over and over again.

Catbus all in parts

Inside out

All put together

Working on the face

A big smile for the camera

All ready to take you wherever you need to go!

I’m pretty pleased with the result, especially since I dabbled a bit in changing colours and carrying the yarn as I went. I’m not sure if I will ever post the pattern on here, since the instructions are clear to me, but hard to put into understandable terms. Plus, the pattern is huge! So it would take a lot of time to type up and I don’t have the time or motivation for that right now ^_^” you guys will have to make due with the pictures for now, but if you’re at Tomofair on October 4th swing by the Tegendraads stand and come admire it in real life ^_~

Cheers, Lydia

Saber Lion Plush big version – pattern

It’s been rather busy in my little world lately. With work demanding a lot of my time and what little free time there is getting gulped up by convention work and looking for a house to buy, I’ve been lucky to get a little crocheting in every once in a while. Ok, that’s not completely true, I have been able to get quite a few things done, but to be honest, I should be spending my time on all those other things ^_~
Sadly, I didn’t get to blog a lot (as I’m sure you’ve all noticed) This, however, was mostly due to me not having a lot to say. I have been keeping up the FaceBook with little updates though ^_^

But now, I finally found the time to type out the pattern for one of my latest finished projects: the big version of Saber’s Lion Plush! Some of you may remember the small version I posted a while back and now, her/his big brother/sister is done! The story behind this is that a friend of mine asked if I could make her a ‘life-sized’ version and a small one, both for herself (she cosplays a lot) and her Dolfie Dream Doll (please don’t ask me what that is, I’m not sure either >_<) There was really nothing I could say but “Challenge Accepted!”

And a challenge it turned out to be! First off, it was rather difficult to get some good quality images of the plush shown in the series. Then I had to figure out whether it was a lion, a teddy bear, or a mixture of both (it was the first combined with the last, I guess). And finally I had to figure out a way to get the colour changes right and certain shapes of body parts (the muzzle 0_O) But I think I managed rather well:

A little reminder of how the plush looks in the anime

The result!

As for the pattern. I wouldn’t recommend it if you’re just starting to crochet, mostly because of the many colour changes in the legs and arms. And a little bit because of shaping the muzzle. Other than that it uses mainly single crochet stitches, so stitch wise it isn’t very difficult. I hope you all enjoy this pattern and as usual: if you notice anything off or get stuck working with it, feel free to contact me through here or via email (can be found in my profile)

Fate/Stay Night Saber Lion Plush pattern Big version

Materials
– Light brown and beige yarn of your choosing, but be sure to use a light weight yarn, because if it is too thick and heavy, your end result will be bigger!
– Crochet hook that matches your yarn (I used a 3mm hook)
– A pair of safety eyes (I used 15mm)
– One safety nose (I used 15mm, but bigger would have been better)
– Stuffing (loads of it!)
– Needle with an eye big enough to pull the yarn through.

Abbreviations
ch – chain
ss – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
st – stitch
BLO – back loops only
fo – finish off
repeat – repeat what is in between **
(x) – x is the amount of stitches you should have at the end of the round

Pattern

Head
With light brown yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7: *sc5, inc* repeat 6 times (42)
R8: *sc6, inc* repeat 6 times (48)
R9: *sc7, inc* repeat 6 times (54)
R10: *sc8, inc* repeat 6 times (60)
R11: *sc9, inc* repeat 6 times (66)
R12: *sc10, inc* repeat 6 times (72)
R13: *sc11, inc* repeat 6 times (78)
R14: *sc12, inc* repeat 6 times (84)
R15: *sc13, inc* repeat 6 times (90)
R16-35 (20 rounds): sc1 around (90)
R36: *sc14, inc* repeat 6 times (96)
R37: *sc15, inc* repeat 6 times (102)
R38: *sc16, inc* repeat 6 times (108)
R39-41 (3 rounds): sc1 round (108)
R42: *sc16, dec* repeat 6 times (102)
R43: *sc15, dec* repeat 6 times (96)
R44: *sc14, dec* repeat 6 times (90)
R45: *sc13, dec* repeat 6 times (84)
R46: *sc12, dec* repeat 6 times (78)
R47: *sc11, dec* repeat 6 times (72)
R48: *sc10, dec* repeat 6 times (66)
R49: *sc9, dec* repeat 6 times (60)
R50: *sc8, dec* repeat 6 times (54)
R51: *sc7, dec* repeat 6 times (48)
R52: *sc6, dec* repeat 6 times (42)
R53: *sc5, dec* repeat 6 times (36)
Start stuffing at this point and attach the safety eyes between rounds 25 and 26 with about 12 stitches between them.
R54: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R55: *sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
R56: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
R57: *sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
R58: dec around (6)
FO and weave in the end.

Muzzle
With beige yarn.
Ch16 and start from the second chain from the hook
R1: sc14, inc and continue on the other side of the chain, sc14, inc (32)
R2: *sc7, inc* repeat 4 times (36)
R3: *sc5, inc* repeat 6 times (42)
R4: *sc6, inc* repeat 6 times (48)
R5: *sc7, inc* repeat 6 times (54)
R6: *inc3, sc21, inc3* repeat 1 times (66)
R7: *sc1, inc* repeat 3 times, sc21, *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times, sc21, *sc1, inc* repeat 3 times (78)
R8-11 (4 rounds): sc1 around (78)
R12: *sc11, dec* repeat 6 times (72)
R13: *sc10, dec* repeat 6 times (66)
R14: *sc9, dec* repeat 6 times (60)
R15: *sc8, dec* repeat 6 times (54)
R16: *sc7, dec* repeat 6 times (48)
R17: *sc6, dec* repeat 6 times (42)
R18: *sc5, dec* repeat 6 times (36)
R19: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
FO and leave a long tail to sew the muzzle to the head. Attach between rounds 32 and 46. Take a bit of beige yarn, thread it through the first round of the muzzle and the underside and pull it tight. This way, you get the shape a bit better.

Nose
With light brown yarn.
Work this one in rows!
Row1: ch11, turn
Row2: start in the second chain from the hook, sc10, ch1, turn (10)
Row3-9 (7 rounds): sc10, ch1, turn (10)
Row10: dec, sc6, dec, ch1, turn (8)
Row11: dec, sc4, dec, ch1, turn (6)
Row12: dec, sc2, dec, ch1, turn (4)
Row13: sc1 around (about 34)
FO and leave a long tail. Sew the smaller part to the muzzle first, then position the nose in the middle. After the nose is secure, you can sew the rest of the piece to the muzzle and the head, leading up a little bit from the muzzle. Stuff very lightly as you go along.

Muzzle detail

Ears (make 2)
With light brown yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7-12 (6 rounds): sc1 around (36)
R13: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R14: sc1 around (30)
FO and leave a long tail.

Inner Ears (make 2)
With beige yarn.Work this one in rows!
Row1: ch4, dc 5 in 4th chain from the hook (3 of the chains count as the first dc) (6)
Row2: ch3, turn, dc1 in first st, dc inc in next 5 st (12)
Row3: ch3, turn, dc1 in first st, dc1, *dc inc, dc1* repeat 5 times (18)
FO and leave a tail to sew onto the ears.
After sewing on the inner ears, slightly stuff the ears and sew them shut with a whip-stitch, then sew them onto the head.

Body
With light brown yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7: *sc5, inc* repeat 6 times (42)
R8: *sc6, inc* repeat 6 times (48)
R9: *sc7, inc* repeat 6 times (54)
R10: *sc8, inc* repeat 6 times (60)
R11: *sc9, inc* repeat 6 times (66)
R12: *sc10, inc* repeat 6 times (72)
R13: *sc11, inc* repeat 6 times (78)
R14: *sc12, inc* repeat 6 times (84)
R15: *sc13, inc* repeat 6 times (90)
R16: *sc14, inc* repeat 6 times (96)
R17-26 (10 rounds): sc1 around (96)
R27: *sc14, dec* repeat 6 times (90)
R28-30 (3 rounds): sc1 around (90)
R31: *sc13, dec* repeat 6 times (84)
R32-34 (3 rounds): sc1 around (84)
R35: *sc12, dec* repeat 6 times (78)
R36-38 (3 rounds): sc1 around (78)
R39: *sc11, dec* repeat 6 times (72)
R40-41 (2 rounds): sc1 around (72)
R42: *sc10, dec* repeat 6 times (66)
R43-44 (2 rounds): sc1 around (66)
R45: *sc9, dec* repeat 6 times (60)
R46-47 (2 rounds): sc1 around (60)
R48: *sc8, dec* repeat 6 times (54)
R49-50 (2 rounds): sc1 around (54)
R51: *sc7, dec* repeat 6 times (48)
FO and leave a long tail. Stuff and sew the body to the head.

Legs (make 2)
Begin with beige yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7: *sc5, inc* repeat 6 times (42)
R8: *sc6, inc* repeat 6 times (48)
R9: BLO sc1 around (48)
R10-13 (4 rounds): sc1 around (48)
This is where things get tricky
R14: *sc5, change to light brown yarn, sc1, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
R15: *sc4, change to light brown yarn, sc2, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
R16: *sc3, change to light brown yarn, sc3, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
R17: *sc2, change to light brown yarn, sc4, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
R18: *sc1, change to light brown yarn, sc5, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
Make sure you change to light brown yarn in the stitch before the light brown stitches of the previous round and back to beige yarn in the stitch after the light brown stitches of the previous round. This way, you get the pointed colour changes. At the end of round 18, don’t change back to beige yarn, but continue the rest of the leg with light brown.
R19-24 (5 rounds): sc1 around (48)
R25: *sc6, dec* repeat 6 times (42)
R26-27 (2 rounds): sc1 around (42)
R28: *sc5, dec* repeat 6 times (36)
FO, leave a tail. Stuff the leg and sew to the body between rounds 8 and 24.

Arms (make 2)
Begin with beige yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7: *sc5, inc* repeat 6 times (42)
R8: *sc6, inc* repeat 6 times (48)
R9: BLO sc1 around (48)
R10-13 (4 rounds): sc1 around (48)
This is where things get tricky
R14: *sc5, change to light brown yarn, sc1, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
R15: *sc4, change to light brown yarn, sc2, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
R16: *sc3, change to light brown yarn, sc3, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
R17: *sc2, change to light brown yarn, sc4, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
R18: *sc1, change to light brown yarn, sc5, change to beige yarn* repeat 8 times (48)
Make sure you change to light brown yarn in the stitch before the light brown stitches of the previous round and back to beige yarn in the stitch after the light brown stitches of the previous round. This way, you get the pointed colour changes. At the end of round 18, don’t change back to beige yarn, but continue the rest of the leg with light brown.
R19: *sc6, dec* repeat 6 times (42)
R20-24 (5 rounds): sc1 around (42)
R25: *sc5, dec* repeat 6 times (36)
R26-30 (5 rounds): sc1 around (36)
FO, leave a tail and stuff the arm. Sew the arms to the body between rounds 37 and 49.

Detail of the colour changes in the arm (the legs are the same)

Ruffle Part 1
With beige yarn.
Work this part in rows!
Ch21 and start working in the second chain from the hook
Row1: sc20, ch1, turn (20)
Row2-3 (2 rounds): sc20, ch1, turn (20)
Row4: *sc7, ch1, turn, dec, sc5, ch1, turn, dec, sc4, ch1, turn, dec, sc3, ch1, turn, dec, sc2, ch1, turn, dec, ch1 but don’t turn, sc down the side until you reach row3* (this makes the first spike in the ruffle). sc6, ch1 turn, dec, sc4, ch1, turn, dec, sc3, ch1, turn, dec, sc2, ch1, turn, dec, sc1, ch1, turn, dec, ch1, turn, sc down the side until you reach row3 (this makes the second spike) repeat ** 1 time.
Sc around until you reach the end of row4. FO and leave a tail to sew the ruffle to the body, just below the head and in between the arms.

Ruffle Part 2
With beige yarn.
Work this part in rows!
Ch26 and start working in the second chain from the hook
Row1: sc25, ch1, turn (25)
Row2: sc25, ch1, turn (25)
Row3: *sc6, ch1, turn, dec, sc4, ch1, turn, dec, sc3, ch1, turn, dec, sc2, ch1, turn, dec, sc1, ch1, turn, dec, ch1, turn sc down the side until you reach row2* repeat 4 times.
Now you have 4 spikes on this ruffle. Sc all around until you reach the end of row3. FO and leave a tail to sew the ruffle to the head, just above the body.

Tail
With light brown yarn.Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: *sc1, inc* repeat 3 times (9)
R3: *sc2, inc* repeat 3 times (12)
R4: *sc3, inc* repeat 3 times (15)
R5: *sc4, inc* repeat 3 times (18)
R7: *sc5, inc* repeat 3 times (21)
R8: *sc6, inc* repeat 3 times (24)
R9: sc1 around (24)
R10: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R11: sc1 around (30)
R12: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R13-15 (3 rounds): sc1 around (36)
R16: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R17: *sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
R18: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
Stuff this part and continue stuffing the tail lightly as you go along.
R19: *sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
R20: *sc3, inc* repeat 3 times (15)
R21-50 (30 rounds): sc1 around (15)
FO and leave an end of yarn to sew the tail to the body between rounds 16 and 23.

And that should do it: one Lion Plush for you to cuddle and enjoy ^_^

Side view

Family portrait

Please, do not sell or post this pattern as your own. You’re welcome to use it, but please link back and give credit to this site ^_^
Note that Fate/Stay Night is copyrighted by Type-Moon. I am not the original creator of the character, but I am of this pattern.

Cheers, Lydia

Happy little accidents

Earlier this week I was trying to get some work done on a pattern I had been thinking of for a while. For some reason, I just couldn’t get it the way I wanted to. Probably because of the yarn I was using (Phildar Douce, it’s of the fuzzy kind) The proportions just wouldn’t come out like they needed. But then, something strange happened. I suddenly realised that even though the project wasn’t going to look like I wanted it to, it started to look like something I could work with. And after a little while, this little cutie rolled of my crochet hook:

And, lets be honest, who would have the heart to frog something like this?

In order to spread some of the cuteness, I decided to share the pattern with you guys, even though there might be a gazillion different teddy/panda/bear patterns out there. Enjoy!

Fuzzy Panda pattern

Materials
Phildar Douce Ecru and Taupe
4mm crochet hook
Stuffing
Needle with a big enough eye to fit the yarn through
A little bit of black yarn for the nose and mouth
A pair of 9mm safety eyes

Abbreviations
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
st – stitch
fo – finish off
repeat – repeat what is in between **
(x) – x is the amount of stitches you should have at the end of the round

Pattern
Head
With ecru.
chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7-12 (6 rounds): sc1 around (36)
R13: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R14: *sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
R15: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
Start stuffing and continue to do so until the last round.
R16: *sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
R17: dec around (6)
FO, close the hole and weave in end.

Eyes (make 2)
With taupe.
chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
Fo, leave a tail for sewing. Position the safety eyes in the middle of the circles and sew the eyes onto the head. Embroider the nose and mouth with black yarn.

Ears (make 2)
With taupe.
chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3-6 (4 rounds): sc1 around (12)
Fold your work and sc through both layers to close the hole. Fo and leave a tail to sew the ears to the head.

Body
With ecru.
chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7: *sc5, inc* repeat 6 times (42)
R8-11 (4 rounds): sc1 around (42)
R12: *sc5, dec* repeat 6 times (36)
R13: sc1 around (36)
R14: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R15: sc1 around (30)
R16: *sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
R17: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
Fo and leave a tail, stuff and sew to head.

Tail
With taupe.
chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
Fo, leave a tail and sew to the body.

Arms (make 2)
With taupe.
chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: *sc1, inc* repeat 3 times (9)
R3: *sc2, inc* repeat 3 times (12)
R4-6 (3 rounds): sc1 around (12)
R7: *sc2, dec* repeat 3 times (9)
R8-11 (4 rounds): sc1 around (9)
Fo and leave a tail. Stuff and sew to body.

Legs (make 2)
With taupe.
chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc3, inc* repeat 3 times (15)
R4-7 (4 rounds): sc1 around (15)
R8: *sc3, dec* repeat 3 times (12)
R9-12 (4 rounds): sc1 around (12)
Fo, leave a tail. Stuff and sew to body.

Give your panda-teddy a nice little bow if you want and tadaa~ it’s all done ^_^

Can’t resist those cute panda eyes ❤

The tail doesn’t stick out much

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me through comment or email ^_^ And make sure to share your own panda-teddies with me if you use my pattern.
Also, please do not post or sell this pattern as your own. You are free to share, of course, but be kind and give credit/link back

For those who are wondering what I was trying to make: it’s Puppycat from Bee&Puppycat (go check it out on youtube). But that pattern will have to wait ’till another day.

Cheers, Lydia

Fate/Stay Night Sabers Lion Plush (small version)

A little while back, a friend of mine asked me for a favour. Could I make her the lion plush that Saber has in the anime series Fate/Stay Night? I said I’d have a go at it. Then came the tricky part: she needs a small version and a life-sized one. With no patterns available and a lot of fan-art to make things a little confusing, I set out to make the best representation that I could. And besides the fact that the colours aren’t exactly as they should have been (a bit more orange than brown) I think I managed quite nicely to make a ‘tiny’ version:

The picture my friend send me

My small version

Especially the fuzzy part below its muzzle was difficult to imitate, but I think I managed.

I also finally found the time to type out the pattern! So here it is ^_^

Fate/Stay Night Saber Lion Plush pattern

Materials
– Light brown and beige yarn of your chosing, but be sure to use a light weight yarn, because if it is too thick and heavy, your end result will be bigger!
– Crochet hook that matches your yarn (I used a 2mm hook)
– A pair of safety eyes (I used 6mm)
– One safety nose (I used 9mm)
– Wire or pipe cleaners
– Stuffing
– Needle with an eye big enough to pull the yarn through.

Abbreviations
ch – chain
ss – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
st – stitch
BLO – back loops only
fo – finish off
repeat – repeat what is in between **
(x) – x is the amount of stitches you should have at the end of the round

Pattern
Head
With light brown yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R6-11 (6 rounds): sc1 around (30)
R12: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R13: *sc5, inc* repeat 6 times (42)
R14: sc1 around (42)
R15: *sc5, dec* repeat 6 times (36)
R16: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R17: *sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
Position eyes between rounds 9 and 10 with about 5 stitches in between. Start stuffing the head, continue stuffing until the last round
R18: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
R19: *sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
R20: dec around (6)
FO, close the hole and weave in end.

Ears (make 2)
With light brown yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc3, inc* repeat 3 times (15)
R4-5 (2 rounds): sc1 around (15)
R6: *sc3, dec* repeat 3 times (12)
Fold your work and sc through both layers to close the hole. Fo and leave a tail to sew the ears to the head.

Inner ears (make 2)
With beige yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
Fo and leave a tail to sew onto the inside of the ears.

Muzzle
With beige yarn.
Ch7 and start from the second chain from the hook
R1: inc2, sc2, inc2, continue on the other side, sc6 (16)
R2: sc1, inc, sc1, inc, sc2, inc, sc1, inc, sc7 (20)
R3: sc3, inc2, sc1, ss2, sc1, inc2, sc9 (24)
R4: sc1 around (24)
R5: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
Fo, leave a tail to sew the muzzle to the head, just below the eyes. Position the nose in the middle of the top of the muzzle. Stuff slightly and sew to head. You have to shape the muzzle a little bit while sewing.

Body
With light brown yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7-9 (3 rounds): sc1 around (36)
R10: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R11: *sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
R12: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
Fo and leave a tail to sew the body to the head. Stuff the body.

Tail
With light brown yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc4 (4)
R2: *sc1, inc* repeat 2 times (6)
R3: *sc2, inc* repeat 2 times (8)
R4: *sc3, inc* preat 2 times (10)
R5: dec around (5)
R6-11 (6 rounds): sc1 around (5)
Fo, leave a tail and sew the tail to the body. In order to be able to position the tail a little bit, insert some wire instead of stuffing before sewing it onto the body.

Legs (make 2)
With beige yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: BLO, sc1 around (18)
R5: *sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
Switch to light brown
R6-9 (4 rounds): sc1 around (12)
Fo, leave a tail. Stuff the legs and sew them onto the body.

Arms (make 2)
With beige yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc5 (5)
R2: inc around (10)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 5 times (15)
R4: BLO, sc1 around (15)
R5: *sc3, dec* repeat 3 times (12)
Switch to light brown
R6-7 (2 rounds): sc1 around (12)
R8: *sc2, dec* repeat 3 times (9)
R9-10 (2 rounds): sc1 around (9)
Fo, leave a tail. Stuff and sew the arms to the body.

To make the fluff, I attached small threads of beige yarn below the muzzle and on the top of the body, then frayed them and cut them to the right length.

Hand for scale

And there you have it, my version of a small Lion plush inspired by the one from Fate/Stay Night.
I hope you enjoy this pattern. Please let me know if there are any problems. Also, do not sell or post this pattern as your own. You’re welcome to use it, but please link back and give credit to this site ^_^
Note that Fate/Stay Night is copyrighted by Type-Moon. I am not the original creator of the character, but I am of this pattern.

Cheers, Lydia

The Legend of Zelda: Octorok pattern

A quick little pattern from me to you on this lovely Sunday!

I have to admit that once again, I did not thoroughly check the internet to see if there were any (free) patterns around.
Also, I’m not entirely happy with the mouth part, so I might revise in the future, if I will ever get to it. Enjoy, and if there are any problems with this pattern, let me know!

Octorok Crochet Pattern

Materials
– Red and White yarn of your chosing
– Crochet hook that matches your yarn (I used a 3mm hook)
– White Felt
– Black acrylic paint
– Stuffing
– Needle with an eye big enough to pull the yarn through.

Abbreviations
ch – chain
ss – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
st – stitch
fo – finish off
repeat – repeat what is in between **
(x) – x is the amount of stitches you should have at the end of the round

Pattern
Head/body
With red yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: sc1 around (24)
R6: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R7: sc1 around (30)
R8: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R9-10 (2 rounds): sc1 around (36)
R11: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R12: *sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
R13: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
Start stuffing the body and continue until you finish off
R14: *sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
R15: dec around (6)
FO, leave an end of yarn to close the hole.

Legs, make 4
With red yarn.
Start with a magic ring or chain 2 and work round 1 into the second chain from the hook.
R1: sc4 (4)
R2: *sc1, inc* repeat 2 times (6)
R3: *sc2, inc* repeat 2 times (8)
R4-6 (3 rounds): sc1 around (8)
FO and leave an end of yarn to sew the legs to the body. Stuff lightly and attach the legs to the body.

Mouth
This one is worked in rows, so chain 1 and turn at the end of the rows!
Start with red yarn, leave a tail to sew the mouth to the body later on.
Row1: chain 9
Row2: starting from the second chain from the hook, sc8, ch1 and turn (8)
Row3: sc8, change to white yarn, ch1 and turn (8)
Row4: ss8
Don’t FO just yet, but sew the ends together so you get a white ring at one end. Once you’ve done that, ss once more in the first st you come across to close the white ring properly. Then FO and sew the mouth to the body. Weave in the ends.

I made the eyes using white felt and black acrylic paint, but you could also use black embroidery thread for the pupils.

And there you have it, a little Octorok to enjoy, love, and care for ^_^ don’t get mad if he spits rocks once in a while, it’s just what they do ^_~

Remember, this character and all others connected to The Legend of Zelda games are copyrights and trademarks of Nintendo. Do not sell this pattern. Feel free to share, but please give credit and link back to my site. If you have any questions or difficulty with this pattern, don’t hesitate to contact me ^_^

Cheers, Lydia

Mokona pattern

Hi everyone!

I’m pretty much halfway through a really busy time at work, but this weekend, I get to enjoy three days off! Which means I got some time to work on a little crocheting again ^_^

Earlier this week I started working on a new pattern that has been swimming around in my head for a while. This time, I have to be honest and admit that I did not scour the internet to see if there were any good, free patterns available. This was one I just really wanted to do, no matter if it meant that I was reinventing the wheel, so to speak.

I won’t keep you all in suspension any more and reveal my latest work:

It’s a white Mokona!
This is a character from CLAMP, a Japanese mangaka group. The same creators that gave us Chobits and thus Atashi (the pink one I showed in my last post) Mokona comes from the xxxHolic and Tsubasa universes and is one of the most adorable sidekicks, in my humble opinion. But I also have to admit that I do not know much about the white version. I’ve only read the xxxHolic series and there, the black version is featured. It’s a bit of a lush and can be rather annoying, but it’s great for comic relief 🙂 The two versions keep in contact using the shiny mark on their foreheads and help out the main characters of both series where needed. In general, they’re happy balls of energetic fluff.

But enough with the introductions, on to the pattern!

Mokona crochet pattern

Materials you need:
– White yarn
– Black embroidery thread
– Pink felt or acrylic paint
– Something red and shiny for the mark on its forehead. I used a sparkly sheet of craft rubber that I ran into a while back. Of course, you could also use red felt.
– Stuffing
– Crochet hook of your choice that suits the yarn you use. I used a 3mm crochet hook. Of course you can use whatever size you like, but keep in mind that the size of your Mokona will vary. Mine became about 10cm high.
– a needle with a big eye to sew the parts together and embroider on the face.

Abbreviations:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
st – stitch
fo – finish off
repeat – repeat what is in between **
(x) – x is the amount of stitches you should have at the end of the round

The pattern
Head/Body
With white yarn, start with a magic ring, or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5 and 6 (2 rounds): sc1 in every st (24)
R7: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R8 and 9 (2 rounds): sc1 in every st (30)
R10: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R11-15 (5 rounds): sc1 in every st (36)
R16: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R17: *sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
R18: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
Begin stuffing the body
R18: *sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
Finish stuffing
R19: dec around (6)
FO and close the hole with an end of yarn.

Feet (make 2)
With white yarn, make a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: *sc1, inc* repeat 3 times (9)
R3-7 (5 rounds): sc1 in every st (9)
R8: *sc1, dec* repeat 3 times (6)
R9 and 10 (2 rounds): sc1 in every st (6)
FO and close the hole with an end of yarn. Also keep a tail of yarn to sew the feet to the underside of the body. The feet don’t need to be stuffed.

Arms (make 2)
With white yarn, make a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc4 (4)
R2: *sc1, inc* repeat 2 times (6)
R3-5 (3 rounds): sc1 in every st (6)
FO and leave an end of yarn to sew the arms to the body. You can stuff the arms lightly.

Ears (make 2)
With white yarn, make a magic ring or chain 2 and work the first round in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc4 (4)
R2: sc1 in every st (4)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 2 times (6)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 2 times (8)
R5: sc1 in every st (8)
R6: *sc3, inc* repeat 2 times (10)
R7: *sc4, inc* repeat 2 times (12)
R8-11 (4 rounds): sc1 in every st (12)
R12: *sc1, dec* repeat 4 times (8)
The ears don’t need to be stuffed.
Fold your work and sc through both layers to close the hole. FO and leave an end of yarn to sew the ears to the top of the head/body.

Tail
With white yarn, chain 6 and start working in the second chain from the hook
R1: ss, sc2, hdc2. FO and leave an end of yarn to sew the tail to the back of the body.

Sew all the parts together. Give the underside of the feet pads using pink felt or acrylic paint. Make the insides of the ears pink using felt or paint. Embroider the face and attach the red mark in the middle of its forehead. Give your Mokona a slight blush using pink acrylic paint.

And there you have it, your very own ball of white energetic fluff! You can also make a black version, using black yarn (of course) and blue material for its mark. For the face I would recommend using white embroidery thread, so that you can clearly see the eyes and mouth.

Please remember that Mokona is a character by CLAMP and that it is not my intellectual property. But this pattern is. So please do not sell this pattern or post it as your own. Feel free to share, but give credit and link back to this site, thank you! As always, if you have any problems or notice mistakes in the pattern, feel free to contact me ^_^ and please, share your work with me! I would love to see what you guys can make using my patterns 🙂

I’m off to enjoy our lovely spring weather!
Cheers, Lydia

The Legend of Zelda: Deku Scrub pattern

As opposed to my last pattern, I did play the game this character comes from, many, many times. It’s a Deku Business Scrub from The Legend of Zelda: The Minish Cap. (sadly, I have never been able to finish the game, I just can’t get past the last boss T_T)

I was quite the late-bloomer when it comes to videogames, so many of my favorites come from the Gameboy Advance series. I still really like the style of these games, as opposed to the designs you find on the Wii or DS. Then again, maybe it’s just because the newer designs are already in (sorta) 3D and they leave little to the imagination when it comes to translating them into crochet. To each their own and I’m certainly not saying that new is always worse. (As you might have noticed with my Pokémon patterns, I am certainly not partial to the earlier games!) But putting all that aside, it’s time for a new pattern ^_^

This is a pattern that had been swimming around in my head since the start of the year. There are a couple more coming up, but with me, you never know when a pattern will just suddenly pop out ^_~

First off, I want to share the picture that I used as the base for this pattern:

Just so you know that if it doesn’t completely look like what you thought it has to look like, I had very little to work with besides my own memory and what few pictures there were to be found online. Many more where from later LoZ games and I just didn’t like the design. I much prefer the more cartoony look from The Minish Cap, since it’s easier to translate to crochet. It’s hard to make lifelike designs ^_^”

And now, without further ado, The Pattern!

Deku Scrub crochet pattern
Materials
– Brown, golden yellow, and green yarn
– Stuffing
– whatever hook to fit your yarn. I made mine using a 3mm crochet hook
– a yarn needle to sew the parts together

Abbreviations
ch – chain
ss – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
st – stitch
BLO – back loops only
fo – finish off
repeat – repeat what is in between **
(x) – x is the amount of stitches you should have at the end of the row

The pattern
Body
Using brown yarn, make a magic ring or ch2 and start working in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: increase around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7: *sc5, inc* repeat 6 times (42)
R8: *sc6, inc* repeat 6 times (48)
R9-18 (10 rounds): sc in every st (48)
R19: *sc6, dec* repeat 6 times (42)
R20:*sc5, dec* repeat 6 times (36)
R21:*sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R22:*sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
R23:*sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
Start stuffing
R24:*sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
R25: decrease around (6)
FO, close the hole with a tail of yarn and weave in the end.

Eyes (make 2)
With golden yellow yarn, make a magic ring or ch2
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: sc1, inc, sc2, inc, sc1 (8)
FO and leave a tail of yarn to sew the eyes onto the body.

Mouth
The mouth is basically a long tube with the open ends sewn together to make a ring shape.
With golden yellow yarn
R1: ch8 and form a ring with a ss (8)
R2-16 (15 rounds): sc1 in every st (8)
FO and leave a long tail. You don’t have to stuff the mouth, but if you want it to stay a bit round, you can stuff slightly.
Sew the open ends together and then sew the mouth to the body.

Detail of the mouth and eyes

Rings
The best way to describe this part is that it’s the rings on top of the head that keep the leaves together. It’s made out of two long tubes with the ends sewn together to create rings. Stuff these slightly as you go, or else they will lose their ring shape when you put them together.
With golden yellow yarn
Part 1
R1: ch6 and make a ring with a ss (6)
R2-30 (29 rounds): sc1 in every st (6)
FO and leave a long tail to sew the ends together and to attach the ring to part 2

Part 2
R1: ch6 and make a ring with a ss (6)
R2-35 (34 rounds): sc1 in every st (6)
FO and leave a long tail to sew the ends together and to attach the ring to the head.

The long tube to make the ring

With the ends sewn together

Leaves (make 5)
With green yarn, start by making a magic ring or ch2
R1: sc3 (3)
R2: increase around (6)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 3 times (9)
R4: sc1 in every st (9)
R5: *sc2, inc* repeat 3 times (12)
R6-10 (5 rounds): sc1 in every st (12)
R11: *sc2, dec* repeat 3 times (9)
R12-15 (4 rounds): sc1 in every st (9)
R16: fold your work in half and sc through both layers to close.
FO and leave an end of yarn to sew the leaves together.
Stuff one of the leaves before you crochet it closed, this will become the middle one.

Sew the leaves together before attaching them to the head. After they are on the head, put the biggest ring (part 2) over them and sew it to the head. Then put the smaller ring (part 1) on top of that and sew them together.

All the leaves, with the middle one stuffed slightly

Sew the unstuffed leaves around the stuffed one to make a bundle

Sew the bundle of leaves onto the top of the head/body before the rings!

Detail of the leaves and rings on top of the head/body

(As you can see, I stuffed the rings a little too tightly, so be sure to really only put in a little stuffing!)

Feet (make 2)
With golden yellow yarn, make a magic ring or ch2
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: increase around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: BLO, sc1 in every st (18)
R5: sc1 in every st (18)
R6: sc5, dec, sc1, dec, sc1, dec, sc5 (15)
R7: sc5, dec3, sc4 (12)
R8: sc1 in every st (12)
FO, stuff and sew to the underside of the body.

Sideview. It might take a few tries, but if you position him just right, this Deku Scrub is able to stand on his own ^_^

Voilá, one Deku Business Scrub for you to make and enjoy ^_^

Remember, this character and all others connected to The Legend of Zelda games are copyrights and trademarks of Nintendo. Do not sell this pattern. Feel free to share, but please give credit and link back to my site. If you have any questions or difficulty with this pattern, don’t hesitate to contact me ^_^

Cheers, Lydia

Flappy Bird Pattern

People who have been following my blog for a while might have caught on by now that I absolutely adore internet hypes and memes. I’m not entirely sure myself of the exact reason, but sometimes I just can’t resist crocheting something I have seen online one too many times. The same goes for Flappy Bird. I have never, ever played the game and the way it looks right now I will never be able to. Maybe that’s just for the best, seeing the many youtube movies where people smash their phones out of frustration.

For those of you that do play Flappy Bird and can crochet (or have a friend/family member who can) I have the solution to your phone breaking problems: your very own Flappy Bird to abuse, throw around the room and submit to whatever else you  think you need to do to vent your frustration.

It’s a kind of short and sweet pattern and shouldn’t be too hard to figure out. As always, if you do have any questions, feel free to contact me in the comments or send me an email over at lydia[at]crochetnanigans[dot]com ^_^ Flappy crocheting!

Flappy Bird crochet pattern
Materials you need:
– Yellow, a darker yellow or orange, red, and white yarn
– A bit of black embroidery thread
– Stuffing
– I made mine with a 2.5mm crochet hook, but of course you can use whatever size hook you want as long as it matches your yarn thickness.
– a yarn needle to sew the parts together

Abbreviations
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
st – stitch
fo – finish off
repeat – repeat what is in between **
(x) – x is the amount of stitches you should have at the end of the round

The Pattern!
Body
With the light yellow yarn.
Start with a magic ring, or ch2 and work in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: increase around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4: *sc2, inc* repeat 6 times (24)
R5: *sc3, inc* repeat 6 times (30)
R6: *sc4, inc* repeat 6 times (36)
R7-10 (4 rounds): sc1 in every st (36)
Change to the darker yellow/orange yarn
R11: sc1 in every st (36)
R12: *sc4, dec* repeat 6 times (30)
R13: *sc3, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
R14: *sc2, dec* repeat 6 times (18)
Start stuffing
R15: *sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
FO and leave an end of yarn to close the gap. Then weave in the end.

Wings (make 2)
With white yarn, make a magic ring or ch2 and work in the second chain from the hook
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: increase around (12)
R3: *sc1, inc* repeat 6 times (18)
R4-6 (3 rounds): sc1 in every st (18)
R7: *sc1, dec* repeat 6 times (12)
FO, leaving an end of yarn to sew the wings to the side of the body. Stuff slightly and sew them onto the body somewhat towards the back.

Eyes (make 2)
With white yarn, make a magic ring or ch2
R1: sc6 (6)
R2: increase around (12)
FO and leave a tail of yarn to sew the eyes on the body. Embroider a pupil with black thread and sew the eyes onto the front of the body.

Mouth/Beak/Lips (I don’t really know what it is ^_^” )
With red yarn.
R1: ch16 and start working your way around the chain (ch16)
R2: starting from the second chain from the hook, sc14, sc3 in next st, continue on the other side of the chain, sc13, sc2 in the last st (32)
FO, leave an end of yarn to sew the mouth to the body, just below the eyes. When it’s on the body, embroider a line with some black thread.

And there you have it: your very own, 3 dimensional Flappy Bird.

You have to help him keep elevated

He’s not very good at flying, but can crash like the best!

Here’s how he looks from the front, which is a bit silly, since all you ever see is the side ^_^”

Since I haven’t played the game and have only seen a couple good pictures of Flappy Bird, this design might not be completely accurate. But I still quite like it ^_^

Obviously, Flappy Bird is not my intellectual property (or else I would now be in my huge villa, hiding from the people making dead threaths towards me and not being able to crochet at all) but this pattern is. So please do not sell this pattern or post it as your own. You are welcome to share, but give credit and link back to my site, thanks!

Cheers, Lydia

First Pattern of the year: Desk Chair

Or maybe I need to call this the last pattern of last year, since that’s when I created it. Oh well, doesn’t really matter, does it?

This is something I worked up really quick in order to have a Christmas present for Boyfriend. I was going to buy him a full-sized chair, but he had to come with me to pick one out. So in order to not leave him empty handed when everyone was getting gifts, I fibbed this:

I promised you guys I’d share the pattern soonish, so here it is ^_^

Desk Chair Pattern

Materials:
I used little bits of leftover yarn, since it’s very small. You can use whatever colour you want, but I used blue, grey, and a tiny bit of black for the wheels. You could also use small black beads for the wheels.
I made this with a 3,5mm crochet hook.

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
ss: slip stitch
st: stitch

The seat and backsupport are worked in rows, while the stand is made in rounds.

Seat
Using blue yarn, ch11
Row1: Starting from the second chain from the hook, sc10, ch1, turn (10)
Row2-7 (6 rows): sc1 in every st, ch1, turn (10)
Row8: sc5, fold your work in half and sc around to close. Stuff lightly before fully closing the seat.
Finish off and weave in end.

Backsupport
Using blue yarn, ch16
Row1: Starting from the second chain from the hook, sc15, ch1, turn (15)
Row2-7 (6 rows): sc1 in every st, ch1, turn (15)
Row8: sc8, fold your work in half and sc around to close. Stuff lightly before fully closing the backsupport.
Finish off and leave and end of yarn.

Now sew together both parts to make and L shape.

Stand
Using grey yarn, ch2
Round1: sc5 in the second chain from the hook (5)
Round2-5 (4 rounds): sc1 in every st (5)
Round6: ch4, work back from the second chain and sc1 in every ch (3) ss in next st of the chair. Repeat around, so you get a star (*) shape with five legs.
Finish off and leave and end of yarn. Pull the end through the stand and sew the stand to the middle of the bottom of the seat.

Now make the wheels by putting a little bit of black yarn at the end of each leg. You can secure it with a drop of glue (you can see that I didn’t and my knots came loose 😦 ), or make wheels out of small black beads.
You can put a bit of pipecleaner or wire in the stand to give the chair more stability.

And there you have it, your very own, teeny, tiny desk chair ^_^

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and if you have any questions, feel free to let me know!
(Also, please do not post this pattern as your own. If you do want to share, link back to my site and give some credit ^_~)

Cheers, Lydia

Pattern #9: Magikarp!

I can’t get away from making Pokémon patterns, but then again, it seems like it is easier for me when I know what the amigurumi should look like before I translate into crochet. I’m still having a hard time figuring out certain shapes, but I am also getting better. So after a friend of mine asked if I could make him a Magikarp, I first ventured onto the Internet to see if there was a pattern fitting for my needs already. I couldn’t find much really, apart from hats, so I decided to make my own.

So without further ado:

Magikarp Crochet Pattern!

A wild Magikarp appeared!

Materials
Orange, white, yellow, pink, and black yarn. 4.5mm safety eyes, stuffing.

Abbreviations
ch – chain
ss – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
st – stitch
fo – finish off
repeat ** – repeat what is in between **
(x) – x is the amount of stitches you should have at the end of the row

The Pattern
The pattern is worked in rounds unless it says otherwise. You do not need to join rounds.

Eyes (make 2)
With white yarn, ch2
Round1: 4sc in second chain from the hook (4)
Round2: 2sc in every st around (8)
Fo, leaving a tail of yarn to sew the eyes to the body.

Body
With orange yarn, ch2
Round1: 6sc in second chain from the hook (6)
Round2: 2sc in every st around (12)
Round3: 1sc in every st around (12)
Round4: *1sc in first st, 2sc in next st* repeat ** 5 times (18)
Round5-6 (2 rounds): 1sc in every st around (18)
Round7: *1sc in first 2st, 2sc in next st* repeat ** 5 times (24)
Round8-11 (4 rounds): 1sc in every st (24)
Round12: *1sc in first 2st, dec1* repeat ** 5 times (18)
Round13-14 (2 rounds): 1sc in every st (18)
Round15: *1sc in first st, dec1* repeat ** 5 times (12)
Round16: 1sc in every st around, front loops only! (12)
Fo, attach the eyes and stuff the body. Make sure not to stuff too tightly, since the body needs to be flattened a bit to get the right shape.

Mouth
To make the mouth, attach black (or in this case, dark grey) yarn to round 16 of the body, back loops only!
Round1: 1sc in every st around (12)
Round2: dec6 (6)
Fo and weave in the ends, closing the gap with an end of yarn.
Then, you attach pink yarn to round 16 of the body and sc1 all around (12) this gives you the lips. Fo and weave in the ends.

Tail
With white yarn, ch2
Round1: 6sc in second chain from the hook (6)
Round2: 2sc in every st around (12)
Round3: *1sc in first st, 2sc in next st* repeat ** 5 times (18)
Round4: *1sc in first 2st, 2sc in next st* repeat ** 5 times (24)
Round5: *1sc in first 3st, 2sc in next st* repeat ** 5 times (30)
Switch to orange yarn, fold your work and crochet together with about 15sc. Fo, leave an end of yarn to sew the tail to the body. With black yarn, embroider two lines down the tail.

Now it’s time to work on the fins! Please note that these are worked in rows! Also, if you’re having trouble figuring this part out, you can always cut the right shapes out of felt and glue them to the body ^_^

Backfin
With yellow yarn
Row1: ch4, turn
Row2: starting from the second chain from the hook sc in every ch, ch1, turn (3)
Row3: 1sc in every st, ch3, turn
Row4: starting from the second chain from the hook sc5, ch1, turn (5)
Row5: sc2, ch2 turn
Row6: starting from the second chain from the hook sc3, fo and leave an end of yarn to sew the backfin on top of the body.
Your end result should look like this:

Backfin

Bellyfin
With yellow yarn
Row1: ch3, turn
Row2: starting from second chain from the hook, sc2, ch1, turn
Row3: sc1, ch2, turn
Row4: sc2, ch1, turn
Row5: sc1, ch3, turn
Row6: sc3, ch1 but don’t turn
Row7: work a row of sc along the side of your work. Fo and leave a tail of yarn to attach the belly fin to the underside of the body.
Your end result should look like this:

Belly Fin

Pectoral Fins (make 2)
With white yarn
Row1: ch7, turn
Row2: sc6, ch1, turn
Row3: sc4, ch3, turn
Row4: sc6, fo.
Attach orange yarn to the side of the fin and ss around the side and top of the fin. Fo and leave a tail of yarn to attach the fins to the sides of the body. using black yarn, embroider two lines across the fins.
Make sure you make a right and a left fin, by ss across a different side for each fin. Or else, the orange rim will be at the bottom of one of the fins!

The end result should look like this:

For the feelers, cut a length of yellow yarn and make a nice big knot at the end. Thread it in a needle and insert the yarn through a gap between stitches. Make it come out through a stitch just below the eyes, so that the knot at the end stays firmly inside. Do the same on the other side and cut the ends to be the desired length.

Tadaa~, your very own Magikarp is done!

Note that Magikarp and all other Pokémon are copyright of Nintendo.
Please do not sell or publish this pattern as your own. If you do use it, please give credit to me and link back to my site, thank you in advance! If you have any questions regarding this pattern, or just want to show off your work, feel free to contact me ^_^

Cheers, Lydia